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  • Kamikaze ISM application tips and tricks

    Hi there,

    Seeing as the useful thread on ISM application has gone I thought it might be prudent to start a new thread as suggested by others. I have just recently done a ISM application to a black WRX as some of you may have seen and I will share my experiences with it.

    Firstly I went into this as a rank newbie only ever having used optimum glosscoat a handful of times.

    The actual application of the product to the paint was fairly painless, however the product is thick and sticky and the cloth can slip off the applicator block if you do not hold it firm enough.

    The timing was another grey area, I was expecting to see a point in the timing where the product would react like a wax on the smear test, and wipe cleanly. This had not happened by 15 mins so I proceeded with removal. My garage temp at the time was only approx 14 degrees which may have been a problem.

    I found the removal difficult to be honest, even using the damp cloth method as suggested by Dan. I had to use much more pressure than I would have liked to completely remove the product. Here is where I hit a problem, I have put micro marring back into the perfectly finished surface by being firm handed in the product removal, this was with brand new OPT cloths out of the packet. This was a little frustrating after spending hours jeweling the paint to absolute perfection with HD polish and black HD pads. I am thinking that the super soft subaru clear was the major contributing factor here. The owner and 99% of people could not see it but I did, disappointing.

    I am wondering if this may have been caused by leaving the dropper in the bottle for too long? I was not aware that this was an issue till after. I was careful to remove the hardened product at the top of the bottle when I first opened it, maybe that was an issue too?

    I do not blame the product at all, my own inexperience is the issue. It is awesome being able to use a pro level product, and I will persist with it. The looks it gives are absolutely amazing, I have never seen paint gloss and reflect so much as the ISM does.

    I hope others can post their tips and tricks to this thread to help others on the first time use of this excellent product.

    Cheers Matt.


  • #2
    Originally posted by GTX3582r View Post
    The timing was another grey area, I was expecting to see a point in the timing where the product would react like a wax on the smear test, and wipe cleanly. This had not happened by 15 mins so I proceeded with removal. My garage temp at the time was only approx 14 degrees which may have been a problem.
    Timing is always a grey area, which is why you should always do a test spot, or even multiple test spots. The same coating on the same paint applied just an hour apart can react differently. Apply a test spot corner of a bumper, or side skirt, etc. This will give you a feel of both the coating application if the coating is new to you, and how long to leave it before wiping off.

    Far too many people get happy and apply coating to a whole car then discover that they left it too long to wipe off. Do small sections at a time. Even a whole door at once can be too much if your coating is setting up quickly. I remember once I had to get Bob to follow me around a car wiping off the instant after I applied a xylene based coating..... Got to love the heat and humidity of Darwin!

    Coatings never ever react like wax, the only one that does is funnily enough the wax based Polish Angel Cosmic.

    Originally posted by GTX3582r View Post
    I found the removal difficult to be honest, even using the damp cloth method as suggested by Dan. I had to use much more pressure than I would have liked to completely remove the product. Here is where I hit a problem, I have put micro marring back into the perfectly finished surface by being firm handed in the product removal, this was with brand new OPT cloths out of the packet. This was a little frustrating after spending hours jeweling the paint to absolute perfection with HD polish and black HD pads. I am thinking that the super soft subaru clear was the major contributing factor here. The owner and 99% of people could not see it but I did, disappointing.
    As above, that's a very good sign you left it too long before trying to wipe it off. You are far better off wiping coatings off a bit wet rather than too dry.

    With Kamikaze ISM, you are better to do a quick wipe first to get most of the residue off, then doing a final wipe with another clean cloth to get the rest. ISM is a thick product, and if you have been sloppy and applied too much to start with, you'll only have more residue to remove...... Just another reason to do test spots to see how the coating reacts and what works.

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    • #3
      There's a few good videos to learn from. Try watching this one from Todd Cooperider.

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      • #4
        Todd is a gun connected on Facebook constantly see a stream of amazing cars


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        Yeah I'm a Volvo driver.

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        • #5
          Having used ISM quite a bit i find the optimum time before removal is between 8-10mins. I find in that time it's still a little tacky but quite easy to remove within that allowed time frame.
          Also a damp towel makes life much easier with ism during removal
          Web: www.thatdetailingguy.com.au

          Facebook: www.facebook.com/thatdetailingguy

          Email: detail@thatdetailingguy.com.au

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          • #6
            As above, I usually remove at or around the 8 minute mark but as with most things detailing related - test spots are esential. I use two towels for removal, the second ensures all the product is removed.

            Best tip is to apply to a panel at a time
            Square 1 Automotive Detailing
            Correct - Refine - Protect - Maintain

            Email: gareth@square1detailing.com.au
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            • #7
              One panel at a time seems a lot. From memory, the instructions I received suggested an area a little bit bigger than a square foot at a time?
              Guessing with the damp towel, wipe down is easier and hence the ability to do bigger areas?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by BlackButters View Post
                One panel at a time seems a lot. From memory, the instructions I received suggested an area a little bit bigger than a square foot at a time?
                haven't read the instructions, but sounds like they are talking about the work area of a loaded applicator. You can load it again and continue. Just don't over do it and get ahead of yourself.

                Originally posted by BlackButters View Post
                Guessing with the damp towel, wipe down is easier and hence the ability to do bigger areas?
                Just get your timings right and don't bite off more than you can chew. With ISM I'll break the bonnet up into 4-6 bits for instance. In comparison, with Miyabi I'll just do the whole bonnet lol!

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                • #9
                  Have had ISM for 2 weeks and just washed my car for the first time today - amazing beading/sheeting.

                  Just wondering, when should I apply overcoat? Do I just spray it on during a car wash and dry the car like normal with a chamois?

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                  • #10
                    You can use overcoat wether the car is wet or dry. Generally it's up to the individual as to when or how oftern its used generally its 3 month intervals.
                    A. You can spray it on a few panels and dry the panels off whilst applying it to the paint.
                    B. Spray into a MF cloth and buff on ( using to much in either forms will cause streaks )
                    Web: www.thatdetailingguy.com.au

                    Facebook: www.facebook.com/thatdetailingguy

                    Email: detail@thatdetailingguy.com.au

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                    • #11
                      Hi everyone,

                      I am new to Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM.

                      For those who have successfully applied them, I wonder what type of MF cloth is the best choice for buffing off Miyabi and ISM?

                      I saw Todd@Esoteric Car Care suggest general purpose short nap MFs.

                      On the other hand, Matty used light blue close looped MFs which produced beautiful result on the blue Golf. Which one is the best? I asked Esoteric Car Care but the answer is not clear to me.


                      Any response is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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                      • #12
                        Hi everyone. I recentlly bought kamikaze miyabi coating and having trouble with the application... no longer than applying to my car, it got super sticky. The outside temperature in my garage was normal and literally making a single swipe with the product made the applicator start sticking to the car.

                        Anyone have advice on how to solve the issue or what I may be doing wrong?

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                        • #13
                          Hmmm, something seems amiss, Miyabi is far less sticky than ISM to apply and remove in my (very limited) experience. My interpretation of your post is that the product is sticky to wipe on from the very first application. Is that correct? If you are referring to wipe off, it could be that the product has been left on for too long but it doesn't sound like that's what's at play here

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                          • #14
                            Guessing it will fall into 1 of 2 categories.
                            1. The product
                            2. The surface prep.

                            Can you tell us how you prepared the surface before the application and how long you've had the product?

                            crash486

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                            • #15
                              Hey guys,

                              re Jone5y: its basically when I am wiping it on, its pretty thick and just gets too thick very very fast on the surface. The car surface was cold and the outside temperature is quite mild so I don't think that is the issue. It could be that the product somehow evaporated while getting delivered to me...

                              re crash486: For the prep I did a good wash, clay + an IPA wipe down in a couple of passes. I did coating with another product some years back so do have a bit of experience but no idea how to deal with this one.

                              so any suggestions on how I can deal with this if the solvent evaporated making it too thick... I guess I'm trying to salvage a defect product here but beats bothering with returning etc...

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