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Glassylite Headlight Restorer Review

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  • Glassylite Headlight Restorer Review

    Hey guys

    Here's one I prepared earlier:

    Headlight Polishing

    So I had another go at cleaning up my headlights. When I got the car they were in a pretty bad way and starting to show signs of UV distress, fine cracks in the corners etc.

    In the past I have used off the shelf kits with mixed results.

    I bought the 3M kit this time, thinking the power of the drill would give me the cut I needed plus save my elbow! Following the instructions, I spent a good 3 hours ....on one light! I would start heavy and work my way through the grades but I would get to the end and be left with scratches and cloudiness that my OCD couldn't handle, so I'd go back to the start and try again. I did this three times and then gave up.

    Then I purchased a kit from Glassylite. It's a Japanese brand, and I guess given that the 'land of the rising sun' is also the 'land of the polycarbonate lens' they must know a thing or two. I had used this years ago on my grey import Nissan Stagea and remembered being pleased with the results, so I tried it on the untouched headlight. I used my own wet sandpaper and soaked it for a few days prior, started with 600/800/1200/1500/2000/3000. Then I used the 3M compound polish with the drill attachment from the 3M kit. And my results were much the same. Lots of little scratches that looked fine from 5 feet away, but turn the headlights on and the scratches stood out like dogs balls.

    But then, in in stepped the final stage of the Glassylite kit. A little bottle of nano sealant that you wipe on with a paper towel. It is meant to give a seal and UV protection to stop the lights from oxidising again, but it also fills all those tiny scratches and made them vanish!! I was blown away, the lights are now flawless.



    So I went back to the original light I used the 3m kit on (the one I just could not get right), hit it with the compound polish to clean it up, then put the nano sealant on and BOOM - perfect optics. Even with the lights on, not a single scratch is visible. They certainly were before the nano sealant went on!

    I would recommend this kit to anyone. It cost half the price of the 3m kit and blows it out of the water.


    2012 Mercedes-Benz C300
    1998 BMW 318is

  • #2
    You've sold me Bought a kit today. How much of the nano sealant did you use? Would there be enough for 4 headlights? ie 2 cars?

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    • #3
      Plenty.

      A second coating after it's cured would probably not hurt either.
      2012 Mercedes-Benz C300
      1998 BMW 318is

      Comment


      • #4
        Nice Nice... wonder how long that sealant will last. Meguiars do a similar kit I believe. Claim 12 months

        Now my OCD is wondering where are those scratches coming from?? deeper than 600 surely not?? And not to be polished out from 3000?? What's going on there?
        “I know that I don’t know anything more than you know. Really… There are no experts. There is only the integrity of doing and having done.” Terence McKenna

        FinishPro Detailing Enhancements
        Web: www.finishpro.com.au Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/finishproAU/ Email: sales@finishpro.com.au

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        • #5
          Might have to give this a go instead of polishing out the remaining marks from the 2000. Is it expensive?

          I found you could eventually polish out the scratches but plastic must be alot harder than paint, so trying to level plastic is always going to take longer i reckon. I was machine polishing out the 2000 for a good hour or two with MF pad and heavy cut menzerna compound, i could have eventually made it perfect, but ran out of time. Then again, I'm the sort of guy that will spend 20 hours on something before shelling out $50 lol.

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          • #6
            I've found using higher grit paper before polishing makes a massive difference 5k and 7k after the usual steps.
            Very interested in the nano sealant though, wonder if it can be bought on its own and not just in the kit? awesome looking lights too btw.

            I usually come across not scratches but small "fracture" cracks in the headlights, I have tried to chase them before but gave up on it as after a considerable amount of time with 600 grit it was not making a difference, not sure if they are deep scratches or micro cracks in the plastic from exposure damage

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            • #7
              I find the scratches you see at the final stage are normally from the earlier stages. Only way to get them out is to go back to that stage and start working your way up again.

              Couple of tips I picked up along the way: don't do circle motions, straight lines up or across. And start with your heavy grit in one direction (eg up and down) then on the next phase/grit you cross it the other way (side to side).

              Oh and tape your surrounds. Especially if using drill mounted discs. I flashed straight through my painters tape, was very lucky!

              Yeah, those cracks are literally cracked and crazed plastics. No amount of sanding and polishing will save it. Irreversible UV damage. I had a small section on the top most curve of one these lights that just couldn't be saved.

              Not sure if you could buy the nanosealant on its own. It really is the key to the process, will take your job from an 8/10 to 10/10.

              It's possible that one of the paint coatings people use like CQuartz etc may have s similar result but I can't be certain.


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
              2012 Mercedes-Benz C300
              1998 BMW 318is

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by ATMOSFEAR View Post
                Might have to give this a go instead of polishing out the remaining marks from the 2000. Is it expensive?

                I found you could eventually polish out the scratches but plastic must be alot harder than paint, so trying to level plastic is always going to take longer i reckon. I was machine polishing out the 2000 for a good hour or two with MF pad and heavy cut menzerna compound, i could have eventually made it perfect, but ran out of time. Then again, I'm the sort of guy that will spend 20 hours on something before shelling out $50 lol.
                $38 or there about on Ebay.com.au

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by SMOKEY View Post
                  I find the scratches you see at the final stage are normally from the earlier stages. Only way to get them out is to go back to that stage and start working your way up again.

                  Couple of tips I picked up along the way: don't do circle motions, straight lines up or across. And start with your heavy grit in one direction (eg up and down) then on the next phase/grit you cross it the other way (side to side).

                  Oh and tape your surrounds. Especially if using drill mounted discs. I flashed straight through my painters tape, was very lucky!
                  Yeah that's what happened on the first one i done, the second one i had the headlight out so i was able to see them alot better and yeah i basically done the same as you and changed direction with different grits. Oh, and thanks for testing this stuff for us all mate

                  Originally posted by Tassie View Post
                  $38 or there about on Ebay.com.au
                  For that price, i'm getting some for sure! Thanks mate

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SMOKEY View Post
                    I find the scratches you see at the final stage are normally from the earlier stages. Only way to get them out is to go back to that stage and start working your way up again.

                    Couple of tips I picked up along the way: don't do circle motions, straight lines up or across. And start with your heavy grit in one direction (eg up and down) then on the next phase/grit you cross it the other way (side to side).

                    Oh and tape your surrounds. Especially if using drill mounted discs. I flashed straight through my painters tape, was very lucky!

                    Yeah, those cracks are literally cracked and crazed plastics. No amount of sanding and polishing will save it. Irreversible UV damage. I had a small section on the top most curve of one these lights that just couldn't be saved.

                    Not sure if you could buy the nanosealant on its own. It really is the key to the process, will take your job from an 8/10 to 10/10.

                    It's possible that one of the paint coatings people use like CQuartz etc may have s similar result but I can't be certain.
                    Before I started doing any I read up alot on it, done 4 sets in the span of a week lol. I was pretty happy with the results I was getting but the cracks shit me, good to know theres nothing I can do about them so its not out of not trying hard enough. About the tape, very good tip, I always tape as a just in case.

                    I looked online and the sealant isn't available on its own but for the price it is for the kit is pretty reasonable, depends on how many lights can be done with the one bottle I guess.

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                    • #11
                      I bought mine from here $37.50 delivered
                      http://glassylite.com.au/

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                      • #12
                        I level with 1500 most of the time, by hand... and then machine sand with:
                        1) 3000 trizact
                        2) 5000 trizact

                        800 is only needed for DEEP scratches in my experience.

                        The 5000 discs mean I can polish out with m205 and a MF pad.
                        The MF "fingers" help reach the corners perfectly without have to edge a pad or bust out the 3 inch rotary.

                        Keen to find a sealant like this.
                        Thanks for sharing


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        • #13
                          Looks the goods! Miles cheaper then the Meguiars Perfect Clarity kit. That retails at $69 at SCA.

                          The Megs kit works well. Has lasted more then 6 months easily but the car is garaged every night. This has given a 95% clear finish with the only slightest haze due to product/sealant.
                          The sealant is an aerosol which is a pain to mask and spray. It does come with a small 2.5" plastic scourer which is aggressive enough to remove the haze/factory coat which stopped me from
                          using anything less then 1200 paper. I polished the 1200 out with Menz 2400 and 3500. Was a perfect finish but the aerosol propelents may have had something to do with the inconsistent finish.

                          Will give this a shot once the current stuff wears off for sure. Will be interested to see how many cars one kit does if anyone can share.

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                          • #14
                            Glassylite Headlight Restorer

                            Following on my previous post and thanks to smokey for the heads up on a great easy to use product.

                            Previous Meg's spray coating began to let go and didn't have perfect clarity. Pics will do the rest of the talking. Used a da instead of included satchets of compound.




                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                            • #15
                              Sorry to bring up an old thread but has anyone tried this...

                              http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...lant-idea.html

                              Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

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